North Col Expedition 2023

Trip Overview

Climbalaya offers an exciting opportunity for novice climbers with previous mountaineering experiences using fixed ropes, crampons, ice axe and would like to take on the challenge of climbing to 7,000 meters. The climb could also be used as an experience for someone with ambitions to climb a 8000 m peak and an opportunity to see how you perform at altitudes.

North Col is a fairly large area where all expeditions make Camp 1 and from where there are fantastic views of the whole of the North face of Everest, the West Rongbuk Glacier, Lho La, Pumori and Cho Oyo. When climbers attempt to climb Everest via the North ridge (Tibet), the first camp on the mountain itself (traditional Camp IV, modern Camp I) is established on the North Col.

The route is initially a straight forward trail up moraine to the East Rongbuk Glacier, which leads to the fixed ropes. The route steadily gains altitude with one steep vertical section of 60 degrees. Climbers need to clip on to the fixed line and use ascenders and must rappel down this section. There are also a few ladders fixed that has to be crossed over deep crevasses.

Trip facts

Duration

28 Days

Height

7045 m-26,911ft

Lat

27°59′17″N

Long

86°55′31″E

Climbing route

Normal North East Ridge

Entry and exit

Lhasa - Kyirong

Gallery

Grade

Grade V

Expedition Schedule

05 Apr to 02 May 2023

Itinerary

  • Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel.
  • Day 2-3: In Kathmandu for Tibet visa processing.
  • Day 4: Transfer to airport for flight to Lhasa (Gonggor airport) and drive to Lhasa (3650m-11680ft), transfer to Hotel
  • Day 5: In Lhasa: sightseeing.
  • Day 6: Drive to Shigatse (3900m-12480ft)- O/N Hotel.
  • Day 7: Drive to Thingri (4350m-14,268ft)- O/N guest house.
  • Day 8: Rest day in Thingri
  • Day 9: Drive to Everest base camp (5200m-17,056ft).
  • Day 10-14: At the base camp to acclimatize and preparing loads for advance base camp, puja ceremony and setting up intermediate and advance base camps.
  • Day 15: Trek to Intermediate Camp (6200m-20,336ft).
  • Day 16: Arrive at advance base camp (6400m-20,992ft).
  • Day 17-21: At advance base camp to acclimatize, puja ceremony and route fixing to north col 7045m
  • Day 22: Climbing north col and back to advance base camp.
  • Day 23: Reserve day for climbing north col
  • Day 24: Advance base camp to base camp.
  • Day 25: Drive to Kyirong border (2700m-8856ft)- O/N Hotel
  • Day 26: Short drive to the Nepal-Tibet border and drive to Kathmandu.
  • Day 27: In Kathmandu.
  • Day 28: Final departure.

Map

Cost includes

  • North col peak permit fee.
  • Transfer airport-hotel-airport in Kathmandu and Lhasa.
  • 3 star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast for 5 nights.
  • Welcome group dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Hotels in Lhasa, Shigatse and Thingri and Kyirong with breakfast and room sharing basis.
  • Transportation of members, staffs, food supply and equipment from Kathmandu- BC– Kathmandu.
  • Member’s personal luggage transfer from BC-ABC-BC.
  • Airfare Kathmandu-Lhasa
  • Logistical services of expedition leader Managing Director Mingma Sherpa at base camp and advance base camp.
  • One experienced high altitude Sherpa to assist during climb to north col.
  • Climbing Sherpa’s climbing and summit bonuses, insurance for evacuation, hospitalization, medical and life insurance.
  • High altitude tent, food and fuel, charges for fixed rope, emergency oxygen with mask and regulator, walkie-talkie for each member and Sherpa partnered team.
  • Nepalese Sherpa cook at BC, intermediate camp and ABC.
  • Spacious single tent with solared light, insulated padded floor, pillow and mattress per member at base camp and at advance base camp.
  • Dining tents with heater and carpet, kitchen tents, toilet tents, shower tent, chairs & tables.
  • Intermediate camp with kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent and sleeping tents.
  • Food and fuel for base camp, intermediate camp, advance base camp during expedition.
  • Power supply at base camp for charging laptops, mobile phones, amateur digital cameras and handheld video cameras).
  • Solar panels at advance base camp for light and charging small electronics. (Mobile phones, amateur digital cameras and handheld video cameras).
  • Equipment allowances, daily wages, insurance, food and tents for cooks, kitchen boy and Chinese Liaison Officer.
  • Satellite phone for emergency at advance base camp.
  • High way and conservation charges. Garbage deposit fees for member and sherpas.

Cost does not include

  • International flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee which can be obtained at the airport upon arrival and reentry visa for Nepal.
  • Meals in Kathmandu and in Lhasa.
  • Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gears.
  • Personal calls made through satellite phone subject to charges at US$ 3 per minute.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
  • Personal solar pack for charging heavy electronics ( laptops, professional camera batteries etc ).
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone US$ 500.00, communication equipment and commercial filming US$ 30,000.00 payable to CTMA.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone and Email, etc.
  • Applicable customs duty and import license fees for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal as air/road cargo .
  • Tips/gratitude for climbing sherpas and cook staffs after end of expedition.

Trip Grades

Grade I

  • Easy to moderate hiking and trekking
  • Light packs (10kg)
  • Elevations often below 2500m
  • Easy terrain
  • Trek duration less than a week in high altitude

Grade II

  • Moderate to strenuous trekking
  • May require carrying bag pack (10kg)
  • Elevations from 2500m to 5500m
  • Moderate terrain
  • Nights are spent in lodge or tents
  • Trek duration of two weeks in high altitude

Grade III

  • Moderate to strenuous trekking
  • May require carrying bag packs (12)
  • Elevations from 2800m to 5500m
  • Moderate to intermediate terrain with short scrambling and descent on moraine/scree sections
  • Nights are spent in tents or lodge
  • Three high passes above 4500m
  • May involve travel to remote areas
  • Trek duration up to three weeks
  • Average of six hours trek per day

    Grade IV

    • Strenuous trekking and climbing
    • May require carrying bag packs (12)
    • Elevations from 2800m to 5500m
    • Moderate to intermediate terrain with short scrambling and descent on moraine/scree sections
    • Terrain might be snow or ice or rock or all mixed including glaciers
    • Few nights are spent in tent at high altitude during peak ascent
    • Nights are spent in tents or lodge
    • Involves travel in remote areas
    • Trek duration of two to three weeks
    • Includes several high passes trek and 6000m peak ascent
    • Minimum seven hours of average trek per day

    Grade V

    • Strenuous climbing
    • May require carrying bag packs (15kg)
    • High or extreme altitude with elevation above 7000m
    • Intermediate to advance terrain
    • Nights are spent in tents
    • Moderate to extreme glacier travel is involved
    • Travel in remote areas
    • Usually expedition duration above four weeks
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