Mt. Baruntse & Mera peak Amphu Laptsa Expedition

Trip Facts

Difficulty

Streneous

Country

Nepal

Duration

37 Days

Altitude

7129 M

Accommodation

Hotel/Lodge/Tent

Trip Start From

Kathmandu

Trip Ends At

Kathmandu

Climbing Route

Normal south east ridge

Longitude

86.58.55

Latitude

27.52.19

Overview

Conquer the Majestic Baruntse (7,129m) – Your Ultimate Himalayan Proving Ground Climbalaya invites experienced mountaineers to embark on an extraordinary expedition to the stunning Mt. Baruntse. Nestled within the pristine Makalu-Barun National Park, this 7,129-meter peak offers a complete and unforgettable Himalayan climbing experience.

Designed as the perfect preparatory adventure for future 8,000-meter objectives, this comprehensive journey combines a summit of Baruntse with an ascent of Nepal’s highest trekking peak, Mera Peak (6,454m). It is more than a climb—it is the ultimate test of skill, endurance, and spirit.

The Challenge:

Mera Peak is graded PD (Peu Difficile) on the Alpine scale. While not “technical” in the sense of vertical climbing, its extreme altitude and cold require serious preparation.

Technical Requirements: * Basic use of crampons and an ice axe for glacier travel.

Experience with “walking in a rope team” for crevasse safety.

The final 30-40 meters to the summit can involve a steep snow slope (approx. 40 degrees) where a fixed rope and ascender (Jumar) may be used for safety.

Baruntse presents a classic, high-altitude mountaineering challenge. It is a challenging (Alpine Grade AD+) and requires previous 6,000m experience. The route features sustained technical climbing on snow and ice, demanding negotiation of steep sections, towering ice cliffs above 50°, and exposed cornices.

Expedition Highlights

Summits

Proven Acclimatization Strategy:

Summit Mera Peak first, providing optimal preparation for the higher challenges of Baruntse.

Complete Technical Experience: Confront the full spectrum of high-altitude mountaineering on a single, iconic peak.

A Journey Through Legendary Landscapes:

Following your summit, traverse the thrilling Amphu Lapcha Pass into the heart of the world-renowned Khumbu Valley.

Safety and Support:

All technical sections on Baruntse are fixed in advance by our expert Sherpa teams during the prime spring and autumn seasons, ensuring a safer climb.

A Legacy of Ascent:

Follow in the historic footsteps of the first ascent team. Baruntse was originally conquered on May 30, 1954, via the South Ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow as part of Sir Edmund Hillary’s New Zealand expedition.

Best Time to Climb:

Spring (April to May): With Warmer temperatures and stable climbing conditions. The ascent is often more comfortable, though there may be more snow on the trail.

Autumn (October to November): The most stable weather window. Post-monsoon air is incredibly clear, providing the sharpest views of the 8,000m peaks

Brief Itinerary

Day 01:

Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
Day 02:

In Kathmandu for official procedures and preparations.
Day 03:

Kathmandu to Lukla via Ramechap airport (2866m) and trek to Paiya
Day 04:

Trek to Pangokma ( 2846m).O/N lodge
Day 05:

Trek to Ramailo Danda (3276m).O/N lodge
Day 06:

Trek to ChhatraKhola (2,800m).O/N lodge
Day 07:

Trek to Kothe (3550m).O/N lodge
Day 08:

Trek to Thagnak ( 4350m). O/N lodge
Day 09:

Trek to Khare ( 4800m). O/N lodge
Day 10:

At Khare : Rest day
Day 11:

Mera high camp 5800m
Day 12:

Summit Mera peak (6454m) and trek to kongmadingma
Day 13:

Trek to Setopokhari (5000m) tea house
Day 14:

Trek to Baruntse BC (5250m).tea/house and camp
Day 15-16:

Rest day, puja and explore towards Camp 1
Day 17-27:

Climbing period
Day 28:

Trek to Amphulaptsa BC
Day 29:

Cross Amphulaptsa to Chukung (4730m)
Day 30:

Trek to Tengboche (3860m)
Day 31:

Trek to Namche ( 3440m)
Day 32:

Trek to Lukla (2866m)
Day 33:

Schedule flight Lukla-Ktm via Ramechap and transfer to hotel.
Day 34:

In Kathmandu
Day 35:

International departure

Streneous

Strenuous climbing
May require carrying bag packs (15kg)
High or extreme altitude with elevation above 7000m
Intermediate to advance terrain
Nights are spent in tents
Moderate to extreme glacier travel is involved
Travel in remote areas
Usually expedition duration above four weeks

Package Details

Cost Includes:

Transfers airport-hotel-airport for Int. and domestic flights.
Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on twin sharing and breakfast as per itinerary.
Airfare Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu via Ramechap airport.
Standard lodge accommodation on room sharing basis with fixed meals during the trek. (Breakfast, lunch and dinner).
Services of climbing/trekking guide, cook and porter support.
Required climbing equipment, high tents, food and fuel, dining and kitchen tents, toilet tents.
Applicable government and local taxes, climbing permit, insurance for guides and porters.

Cost Excludes:

International airfare to and from Kathmandu.
Nepal Tourist Visa fees (can be obtained upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Expenses of a personal nature, including phone calls, laundry, bar bills, and internet access.
Alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, tea, coffee, snacks between meals ,mineral water, boiled water, hot showers, during the trek.
Gratuities for guides, porters, and drivers.
Personal travel and medical insurance mandatory to cover medical, hospitalization, and rescue evacuation charges.(; must cover emergency evacuation and high-altitude trek and climbs).
Personal trekking and climbing equipment (e.g., sleeping bags, down jackets, trekking poles, etc.).