Lhakpa Ri Expedition
Expedition Schedule
07 April to 08 May 2026
Overview
Mt. Lhakpa Ri (7,045m): The Perfect 7,000m Summit Mt. Lhakpa Ri stands as one of the world’s most accessible and rewarding 7,000-meter peaks. Located in Tibet, directly across the Rongbuk Glacier from the North Face of Mount Everest, it offers climbers a rare and spectacular vantage point. Its combination of a non-technical ascent, a historic route, and arguably the best close-up view of Everest makes it a premier objective for ambitious mountaineers.
Key Facts at a Glance
Location: Mahalangur Himal, Tibet, China. Faces the North Face of Everest.
First Ascent: 1921 by the British Everest Reconnaissance Expedition
Trip Facts
Duration
Altitude
Accommodation
Trip Start From
Trip Ends At
Climbing Route
Longitude
Latitude
Lhakpa Ri is the perfect mountain for:
- Ambitious Climbers with prior experience on 6,000m peaks (e.g., Mera Peak, Lobuche East, Island Peak).
- Mountaineers seeking to build experience and acclimatize for future 8,000m expeditions, such as Everest or Cho Oyu.
- Adventurers who want to stand on a 7,000m summit without the extreme technical commitment of more difficult peaks.
- Prerequisites: Climbers should be in excellent physical condition, have basic knowledge of glacier travel, and be proficient in using crampons, ice axes, and ascending fixed ropes.
Why Climb Lhakpa Ri?
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1. The Ultimate “First” 7,000m Peak
Lhakpa Ri is globally renowned as one of the easiest and safest peaks above 7,000 meters. The ascent involves moderate, glaciated terrain with gentle to moderate slopes, making it the perfect graduation for climbers who have summited 6,000m peaks and are ready to enter the realm of higher altitude.
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2. The Most Spectacular View of Everest
No other mountain offers such an intimate and breathtaking frontal view of Mount Everest’s entire North Face. From the summit of Lhakpa Ri, you gaze directly across the valley at the Great Couloir and the entire Northeast Ridge, a perspective few climbers ever experience.
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3. A Walk Through Mountaineering History
The approach follows the same historic route used by legendary early Everest pioneers like George Mallory and Andrew Irvine. Climbing Lhakpa Ri is a journey through the footsteps of mountaineering history, ascending the East Rongbuk Glacier towards the North Col.
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4. A Safe & Straightforward Ascent
The standard route is considered safe and straightforward. The primary challenges are altitude and endurance, not extreme technical difficulty. The climb involves:
- Glacier travel on the East Rongbuk Glacier.
- Fixed lines on steeper snow sections for safety and ease of ascent.
- No significant technical rock or ice climbing, making it an ideal peak for refining skills like crampon work and fixed-line ascension.
Summit Day
- Standard Route: Safe and straightforward.
- Approach: The journey begins at Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6,400m, which is reached after a multi-day trek.
- The Ascent: From ABC, climbers ascend the well-traveled slopes towards the North Col before traversing towards Lhakpa Ri’s summit ridge.
- Summit Ridge: The final section involves a scenic, exposed ridge walk with minimal technical difficulty, leading to the small, spectacular summit.
- Descent: The return follows the same route back to ABC, typically completed in a single, long summit day.
Brief Itinerary
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Day 01:Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
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Day 02:In Kathmandu for official procedures and preparations.
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Day 03:Heli flight: Kathmandu to Lukla (2866m-9400ft) and trek to Paiya ( 2730m-8954ft).O/N Lodge
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Day 04:Trek to Pangokma (2846m-9334ft).O/N Lodge
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Day 05:Trek to Chatra khola (3150m-10332ft) via Ramailo danda. O/N Lodge
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Day 06:Trek to Kothe (3550m-11644ft). O/N Lodge
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Day 07:Trek to Thagnak (4350m-14268 ft). O/N Lodge
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Day 08:Trek to Khare (4800m-15744ft). O/N Lodge
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Day 09:At Khare: Preparations for the climbing.
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Day 10:High camp (5800m-19024ft). Camp
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Day 11:Summit Mera Peak (6654m-21825ft) and back to Khare. O/N Lodge
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Day 12:Contingency day for climbing.
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Day 13:Heli flight : Khare-Lukla-Ktm.
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Day 14:Rest day
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Day 15:Fly Kathmandu-gonggor airport and drive to Lhasa (3650m-11680ft). O/N hotel
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Day 16:In Lhasa : sightseeing.
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Day 17:Drive to Shigatse (3900m-12480ft). O/N Hotel
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Day 18:Drive to Thingri (4350m-14,268ft)- O/N Guest House
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Day 19:Drive to Everest base camp (5200m-17,056ft)
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Day 20-21:At the base camp to acclimatize and preparing loads for advance base camp.
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Day 22:Trek to Intermediate Camp (6200m-20,336ft).
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Day 23:Arrive at advance base camp (6400m-20,992ft).
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Day 24-27:Lhakpa ri Climbing period.
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Day 28:Advance base camp to base camp.
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Day 29:Drive to Kyirong (2700m-8,856ft). O/N hotel
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Day 30:Cross border to Nepal and drive to Kathmandu.
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Day 31:In Kathmandu.
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Day 32:Departure.
Challenges
- Altitude and endurance, not extreme technical difficulty
- Glacier travel on the East Rongbuk Glacier.
- Fixed lines on steeper snow sections for safety and ease of ascent.
- No significant technical rock or ice climbing, making it an ideal peak for refining skills like crampon work and fixed-line ascension.
Package Details
Cost Includes:
- Permits, Visas & Transport:
- All necessary permits (Lhakpa Ri, Mera Peak) and Tibet visa processing.
- All airport transfers, helicopter flights in Nepal, and flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa.
- Final transport from Everest Base Camp back to Kathmandu.
- Accommodation & Meals:
- Deluxe hotel in Kathmandu as per itinerary.
- Full-board accommodation (all meals) in Tibet on a shared room basis.
- All meals and fuel at Base Camp (BC), Advanced Base Camp (ABC), and high camps.
- Climbing & Base Camp Support:
- Sherpa-guided ascent of Mera Peak for acclimatization.
- Luxury Base Camp Setup: Spacious personal tents with beds and mattresses at BC, dome tents at ABC, and a heated communal dome with sofas, a mini-bar, and a coffee machine.
- Full kitchen, dining, shower, and toilet tents with heating.
- Expedition leadership provided by Managing Director Mingma Sherpa.
- Nepalese cooks at all camps and a dedicated Chinese Liaison Officer.
- Equipment & Safety:
- Common group climbing gear and rope-fixing fees.
- Power supply at BC and solar charging at ABC for small electronics.
- All staff wages, allowances, and insurance are covered.
Cost Excludes:
- International Flights to and from Kathmandu.
- Personal Gear & Insurance: Personal climbing equipment and comprehensive travel/medical/rescue insurance.
- Personal climbing Sherpa support.
- Personal Expenses: Meals in Kathmandu, snacks, drinks, laundry, and satellite phone calls. Tips for guides and staff.
- Charging for heavy electronics (laptops, professional cameras).
- Any expenses outside the official itinerary.
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