Mt. Manaslu Expedition 2023

Trip Overview

Mt. Manaslu is located in the west-central Nepal about 50 miles from Kathmandu and is the 8th highest mountain. It was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition via the north East Ridge. Manaslu has a reputation as one of the "achievable" 8000m mountains and it is for those who want to climb a more varied and challenging 8,000er testing your compete and climbing skills for aspiring Everest climbers.

Manaslu is not a very a technical mountain but there are a number of objective dangers one has to look out for; namely avalanche prone slopes above C1 and C2 and some hidden crevasses. The mountain experiences a lot of snowfall which makes the climb physically demanding as climbers keep having to break trail.

After a days drive from Kathmandu, it takes a comfortable ten days to arrive at Manaslu base camp (BC) at 4400m. The location of Camp 1 will be at 5,700m. The route from Base to C1 will include rock scrambles on moraine and sections of glacier travel of varying terrain.

Climbing from C1 to C2 will include longer sections of steep snow and ice, with some short vertical ice steps. The route will be fixed with rope in any exposed or vertical sections in order to maximize our safety. The Camp 2 is located at 6,400m and most climbers can climb their first time to C2 in 3-6 hours.

A climb of roughly 5-7 hours takes us to the flat saddle of Camp 3 at 6,900m. The route is less steep and weaves in and out of short ice steps.

During summit push, we will climb from this location another 5-7 hours to our Camp 4 location. Here we will rest, eat, drink, and prepare for the summit bid. The climb to the summit, while not technical, is demanding given the altitude. The route is set by climbing Sherpas with a fixed line mostly from Camp 1 higher.

Trip facts

Duration

45 Days

Height

8,163 m

Lat

28° 33` 0 N

Long

84° 32` 60 E (Mansiri Himal )

Climbing route

North East Ridge

Entry - Exit

Dharapani-Arughat

Gallery

Grade

Grade V

Expedition Schedule

26 Aug to 9 Oct, 2023

Itinerary

  • Day 1:Arrival in Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel.
  • Day 2-3: Kathmandu.
  • Day 4: Kathmandu-Beshishar by bus and drive to Dharapnai -1963m by jeep. O/N lodge
  • Day 5: Trek to Goa -2515m. O/N lodge
  • Day 6: Trek to Bimthang-3590m.O/N lodge
  • Day 7: Rest Day at Bimthang. O/N lodge
  • Day 8: Cross Larkey Pass 5160m and stay in Samdo 3875m. O/N lodge
  • Day 9: Trek to Sama Gaun- 3520m.O/N lodge
  • Day 10: Rest at Sama Gaun.O/N lodge
  • Day 11: Trek to BC 4800m
  • Day 12-14: At BC for puja ceremony, acclimatization and climbing preparations
  • Day 15-37: Climbing Period
  • Day 38: Trek back To Samagaon.
  • Day 39: Trek to Namrung 2630m.
  • Day 40: Trek to Deng 1860m.
  • Day 41: Trek to Jagat 970m.
  • Day 42: Trek to Machakhola 869m.
  • Day 43: Trek to Sotikhola and drive to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel.
  • Day 44: In Kathmandu.
  • Day 45: International departure.

Map

Mt.Manaslu

Cost includes

Basic Package

  • Mt. Manaslu peak permit fee.
  • Transfer airport-hotel-airport for International flights.
  • Transportation of staffs, food supply and equipment Kathmandu-base camp-Kathmandu via Beshishar-Dharapani by vehicle and porters.
  • Portages of member’s personal climbing equipment Kathmandu—base camp-Kathmandu 60 kgs per person.
  • Standard hotel accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu for 5 nights.
  • Food and fuel at base camp during expedition.
  • Kitchen equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent with heater, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs & tables.
  • Spacious single tent with insulated floor and mattress for each member at base camp.
    Generator at BC for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. mobile phones, amateur digital cameras and handheld video cameras).
  • Sat Phone available at base camp with nominal charges for use.
  • Services of Nepalese cook and kitchen boy at base camp.
  • Insurance of cooks, kitchen Boys, liaison officer and porters including emergency evacuation, medical, hospitalization and life insurance.
  • Equipments allowance, wages for Government Liaison Officer , cook and kitchen boy.
  • Applicable national park fees and garbage disposal charges.
  • Welcome group dinner in Kathmandu.

Full Package

  • Mt. Manaslu peak permit fee.
  • Transfer airport-hotel-airport for International flights.
  • 3 star hotel accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu for 5 nights.
  • Transportation of staffs, food supply and equipment Kathmandu-base camp-Kathmandu via Beshishar-Dharapani by vehicle and porters.
  • Portages of member’s personal climbing equipment Kathmandu—base camp-Kathmandu 60 kgs per person.
  • Services of one high altitude climbing Sherpa per climber to carry food, gears, oxygen bottles to higher camps and set up camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt
  • Climbing Sherpa’s climbing and summit bonus.
  • Insurance for climbing Sherpa including heli evacuation, hospitalization, medical and life insurance.
  • 3 oxygen bottles (4Lts) per member with mask and regulator (For use only.)
  • Common climbing equipment (Required rope, ice bar, ice screw, etc) rope fixing fee.
  • High altitude tents, food and fuel for members and climbing Sherpa.
  • Walkie-talkie for each member and Sherpa partnered team.
  • Full board at the local lodge during trekking to BC and after expedition.
  • Food and fuel at base camp during expedition.
  • Kitchen equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent with heater, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs & tables.
  • Spacious single tent with insulated floor and mattress for each member at base camp.
    Generator at BC for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. mobile phones, amateur digital cameras and handheld video cameras).
  • Generator at base camp for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. mobile phones, amateur digital cameras and handheld video cameras).
  • Sat Phone available at base camp with nominal charges for use.
  • Services of Nepalese cook and kitchen boy at base camp.
  • Insurance of cooks, kitchen Boys, liaison officer and porters including emergency evacuation, medical, hospitalization and life insurance.
  • Equipments allowance, wages for Government Liaison Officer, cook and kitchen boy.
  • Applicable national park fees and garbage disposal charges.
  • Welcome group dinner in Kathmandu.

Cost does not include

Basic Package

  • International flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee which can be obtained at the airport.
  • Meals in Kathmandu. Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear above advance base camp and all climbing arrangements such as high tents, food and fuel, ropes and climbing equipment.
  • Fixed rope fee US$ 125 per person ( subject to changes )
  • Personal calls made through satellite phone subject to charges at US$ 3.00 per minute
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone and Email, etc.
  • Applicable customs duty and import license fees for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal as air/road cargo.
  • Personal solar pack for charging heavy electronics (laptops, professional camera batteries etc).
  • Tips/gratitude for cooks and climbing Sherpa at the end of the trip.

Full Package

  • International flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee which can be obtained at the airport.
  • Meals in Kathmandu. Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gears.
  • Personal calls made through satellite phone subject to charges at US$ 3.00 per minute
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone and Email, etc.
  • Applicable customs duty and import license fees for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal as air/road cargo.
  • Personal solar pack for charging heavy electronics (laptops, professional camera batteries etc).
  • Tips/gratitude for cooks and climbing Sherpa at the end of the trip.

Trip Grades

Grade I

  • Easy to moderate hiking and trekking
  • Light packs (10kg)
  • Elevations often below 2500m
  • Easy terrain
  • Trek duration less than a week in high altitude

Grade II

  • Moderate to strenuous trekking
  • May require carrying bag pack (10kg)
  • Elevations from 2500m to 5500m
  • Moderate terrain
  • Nights are spent in lodge or tents
  • Trek duration of two weeks in high altitude

Grade III

  • Moderate to strenuous trekking
  • May require carrying bag packs (12)
  • Elevations from 2800m to 5500m
  • Moderate to intermediate terrain with short scrambling and descent on moraine/scree sections
  • Nights are spent in tents or lodge
  • Three high passes above 4500m
  • May involve travel to remote areas
  • Trek duration up to three weeks
  • Average of six hours trek per day

    Grade IV

    • Strenuous trekking and climbing
    • May require carrying bag packs (12)
    • Elevations from 2800m to 5500m
    • Moderate to intermediate terrain with short scrambling and descent on moraine/scree sections
    • Terrain might be snow or ice or rock or all mixed including glaciers
    • Few nights are spent in tent at high altitude during peak ascent
    • Nights are spent in tents or lodge
    • Involves travel in remote areas
    • Trek duration of two to three weeks
    • Includes several high passes trek and 6000m peak ascent
    • Minimum seven hours of average trek per day

    Grade V

    • Strenuous climbing
    • May require carrying bag packs (15kg)
    • High or extreme altitude with elevation above 7000m
    • Intermediate to advance terrain
    • Nights are spent in tents
    • Moderate to extreme glacier travel is involved
    • Travel in remote areas
    • Usually expedition duration above four weeks
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