Mt. Everest, known by the Nepalese / Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 8848m and stands in the border between Nepal and Tibet. It was successfully climbed from the south col on May 29th by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand).
Climbing Everest from the Tibet side is relatively easier and less costly than climbing from the Nepal side.Climbalaya offers climbing route via the North Ridge because we consider it to be safe as it does not have the ice fall danger like the south side.Many members of our team (including Sherpa, cooks, doctor, and guides) have worked extensively on the North Side and make our team one of the most experienced to offer climbs from Tibet.
We drive to BC at 5,200m and from there it is 22 km to ABC at 6,400m with yak support. We put an interim camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so this trip takes two days. Advanced Base Camp (6,400m) is right under the shadow of Changtse and has a view of virtually the whole route from ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier to the nerve of the glacier and then up snow slopes to the North Col at 7,000m where Camp 1 is situated on snow. There is a long reasonably angled snow slope to 7,500m where we put Camp 2 on a snow ledge. The route from C2 to C3 is up a series of rock and shingle steps, again all very easy terrain to walk on.
From C3 the route traverses across a series of rock steps and then up medium angled snow slopes, then again on mixed rock and snow to Camp 4 at 8,300m. This route is traditionally very windy, especially between C2 and C3. The summit day is from C4 where the route is up mixed rock and snow steps. These steps are quite steep in places and require considerable care .The NE ridge is quite wide, with small steps and little height gain until the First Step 8500m. The First Step is a short rock buttress, which will have fixed ropes. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second Step 8580m. The Second Step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder and up the famous ladder with fixed ropes. Above this step there is relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step 8690m. Although not as serious as the previous steps, there is fixed rope to the col before the final summit snow slopes. These can be quite steep often with deep snow, so again we have fixed rope to the summit rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit.
Keshar Mahal, Thamel-26, Kathmandu, Nepal
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