Mt. Everest 2019 Tibet

Trip Overview

Mt. Everest, known by the Nepalese / Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 8848m and stands in the border between Nepal and Tibet. It was successfully climbed from the south col on May 29th by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand).

Climbing Everest from the Tibet side is relatively easier and less costly than climbing from the Nepal side.Climbalaya offers climbing route via the North Ridge because we consider it to be safe as it does not have the ice fall danger like the south side.Many members of our team (including Sherpa, cooks, doctor, and guides) have worked extensively on the North Side and make our team one of the most experienced to offer climbs from Tibet.

We drive to BC at 5,200m and from there it is 22 km to ABC at 6,400m with yak support. We put an interim camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so this trip takes two days. Advanced Base Camp (6,400m) is right under the shadow of Changtse and has a view of virtually the whole route from ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier to the nerve of the glacier and then up snow slopes to the North Col at 7,000m where Camp 1 is situated on snow. There is a long reasonably angled snow slope to 7,500m where we put Camp 2 on a snow ledge. The route from C2 to C3 is up a series of rock and shingle steps, again all very easy terrain to walk on.

From C3 the route traverses across a series of rock steps and then up medium angled snow slopes, then again on mixed rock and snow to Camp 4 at 8,300m. This route is traditionally very windy, especially between C2 and C3. The summit day is from C4 where the route is up mixed rock and snow steps. These steps are quite steep in places and require considerable care .The NE ridge is quite wide, with small steps and little height gain until the First Step 8500m. The First Step is a short rock buttress, which will have fixed ropes. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second Step 8580m. The Second Step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder and up the famous ladder with fixed ropes. Above this step there is relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step 8690m. Although not as serious as the previous steps, there is fixed rope to the col before the final summit snow slopes. These can be quite steep often with deep snow, so again we have fixed rope to the summit rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit.

Trip facts

Duration

58 Days

Height

8,848 m

Lat

27°59′17″N

Long

86°55′31″E

Climbing route

Normal North East Ridge/North Col Route

Entry - Exit

Lhasa - Kyirong

Gallery

Grade

Grade V

Expedition Schedule

08 Apr to 04 Jun 2019

Itinerary

  • Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel
  • Day 2-3: In Kathmandu for Tibet visa processing
  • Day 4: Transfer to airport for flight to Lhasa (Gonggor airport) and drive to Lhasa (3650m-11680ft), transfer to Hotel
  • Day 5: In Lhasa : sightseeing
  • Day 6: Drive to Shigatse (3900m-12480ft)- O/N Hotel
  • Day 7: Drive to Thingri (4350m-14,268ft)- O/N Guest House
  • Day 8: Rest day in Thingri
  • Day 9: Drive to Everest base camp (5200m-17,056ft)
  • Day 10-14: At the base camp to acclimatize and preparing loads for advance base camp, puja ceremony and setting up intermediate and advance base camps.
  • Day 15: Trek to Intermediate Camp (5800m-19,024ft)
  • Day 16: Arrive at advance base camp (6400m-20,992ft)
  • Day 17-53: Climbing Period
  • Day 54: Advance base camp to base camp
  • Day 55: Drive to Kyirong border (2700m-8856ft)- O/N Hotel
  • Day 56: Short drive to the Nepal-Tibet border and drive to Kathmandu
  • Day 57: In Kathmandu
  • Day 58: International departure

Map

Mt. Everest and Tibet

Cost includes

  • Mt. Everest peak permit fee. Tibet visa fee
  • Transfer airport-hotel-airport in Kathmandu and Lhasa.
  • Airfare Kathmandu-Lhasa.
  • 3 star hotel accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu for 5 nights.
  • Hotel accommodation with breakfast in Lhasa, Shigatse ,Thingri and Kyirong on room sharing basis.
  • Welcome group dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Transportation of staffs, food supply and equipment from Kathmandu- BC– ABC-Kathmandu.
  • 80 kilograms (2 yaks) per member to carry personal expedition baggage from BC-ABC-BC.
  • High way and conservation charges. Garbage deposit fee.
  • Logistical services of expedition leader Managing Director Mingma Sherpa at BC and ABC.
  • One experienced high altitude Sherpa (Mt. Everest summiteer) per climber to carry food, gears and oxygen bottles to higher camps and set up camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt
  • Climbing Sherpa’s climbing and summit bonuses, insurance for evacuation, hospitalization, medical and life insurance.
  • 6 oxygen bottles (4Lts) per member and 4 oxygen bottles (4Lts) per Sherpa with mask and regulator (For use only).
  • High altitude tents for all members and climbing Sherpas.
  • Walkie-talkie for each member and Sherpa partnered team with base unit at advance base camp.
  • Common climbing equipment for rope fixing (Required rope, ice bar, ice screw, etc) / rope fixing fee payable to CTMA rope fixing team for members and sherpas.
  • Nepalese sherpa cook at BC, intermediate camp and ABC.
  • Spacious single tent with solared light, insulated padded floor, pillow and mattress per member at BC and ABC
  • Dining tents with heater and carpet, kitchen tents, toilet tents, shower tent, chairs & tables.
  • Food and fuel for base camp, intermediate camp, advance base camp and higher camps during expedition.
  • Power supply at base camp for charging laptops, mobile phones, amateur digital cameras and handheld video cameras). Internet access/wifi services at base camp.
  • Solar panels at ABC for light and charging small electronics. (Mobile phones, amateur digital cameras and handheld video cameras).
  • Equipment allowances, daily wages, insurance, food and tents for cooks, kitchen boy and Chinese Liaison Officer.
  • Satellite phone for emergency. High way and conservation charges. Garbage deposit fees.

Cost does not include

  • International flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee which can be obtained at the airport upon arrival and reentry visa for Nepal.
  • Meals in Kathmandu and in Lhasa, Shigatse, Thingri and Kyirong.
  • Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gears.
  • Personal calls made through satellite phone subject to charges at US$ 3 per minute, Internet access/wifi services at base camp.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
  • Personal solar pack for charging heavy electronics ( laptops, professional camera batteries etc ).
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone US$ 500.00, communication equipment and commercial filming US$ 30,000.00 payable to CTMA.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone and Email, etc.
  • Applicable customs duty and import license fees for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal as air/road cargo.
  • Tips/gratitude for climbing sherpas and cook staffs after end of expedition.

Trip Grades

Grade I

  • Easy to moderate hiking and trekking
  • Light packs (10kg)
  • Elevations often below 2500m
  • Easy terrain
  • Trek duration less than a week in high altitude

Grade II

  • Moderate to strenuous trekking
  • May require carrying bag pack (10kg)
  • Elevations from 2500m to 5500m
  • Moderate terrain
  • Nights are spent in lodge or tents
  • Trek duration of two weeks in high altitude

Grade III

  • Moderate to strenuous trekking
  • May require carrying bag packs (12)
  • Elevations from 2800m to 5500m
  • Moderate to intermediate terrain with short scrambling and descent on moraine/scree sections
  • Nights are spent in tents or lodge
  • Three high passes above 4500m
  • May involve travel to remote areas
  • Trek duration up to three weeks
  • Average of six hours trek per day

    Grade IV

    • Strenuous trekking and climbing
    • May require carrying bag packs (12)
    • Elevations from 2800m to 5500m
    • Moderate to intermediate terrain with short scrambling and descent on moraine/scree sections
    • Terrain might be snow or ice or rock or all mixed including glaciers
    • Few nights are spent in tent at high altitude during peak ascent
    • Nights are spent in tents or lodge
    • Involves travel in remote areas
    • Trek duration of two to three weeks
    • Includes several high passes trek and 6000m peak ascent
    • Minimum seven hours of average trek per day

    Grade V

    • Strenuous climbing
    • May require carrying bag packs (15kg)
    • High or extreme altitude with elevation above 7000m
    • Intermediate to advance terrain
    • Nights are spent in tents
    • Moderate to extreme glacier travel is involved
    • Travel in remote areas
    • Usually expedition duration above four weeks
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